Why They Bought It: The Chopova Lowena Carabiner Skirt
"In a world of mass-produced fashion, it's an extremely thoughtful and emotional piece."
Continuing my shopping series Why They Bought It where I investigate the cultish appeal of certain fashion items.
Fashion people often say that nothing is new under the sun but every now and then, a designer item so different-looking, so profoundly inspired will challenge that perception, reminding us that original thinking always breeds innovation. This was the case with the Chopova Lowena Carabiner Skirt, which the London-based designers Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena debuted in 2017.
Is it a kilt? Is it a skirt? Could it be both? The cult design doesn’t fit neatly in a box, and it’s a big part of the appeal as content creator Skylar Marshai said, “It truly feels like the best of all worlds–it’s masculine and feminine, sculptural yet fluid, sharp but soft.” Where some see a freak item—what’s with the carabiner clips holding up…what’s that…plaid aprons?—something punk for alternative kids, others see a reification of tough femininity or an open invite to gender nonconformists. For others, it’s a unique-looking versatile skirt that can be worn on several different bodies. The Carabiner Skirt is, to those who wear it, whatever they want it to be.
How did a piece so weird (I mean it in the best way), so eccentric become a sensation dominating street style in London, New York and Shanghai? The answer lies in the thought process that underlies its creation. Part of their 2017 Central Saint Martins graduate collection, the Carabiner Skirt draws from the designers’ cultural heritage—particularly Chopova’s Bulgarian background—and the duo’s passion for sustainability (the stitched aprons are fashioned out of locally sourced deadstock fabrics). It is the product of multiple research trips to Bulgaria, during which the designers studied the national dress and collected the country’s costumes. Beyond the thoughtful design, there is also a spiritual dimension to the skirt as Scarlett Newman writes on Fashionista:
The intricately stitched aprons that serve as the skirt's foundation call back to Bulgarian life from the 19th century and onward, when they're believed to have been designed as a protective measure for women's reproductive organs. They feature symbols and other woven designs meant to ward off the evil eye, creating a full circle of protection of the female body.
“[The Carabiner Skirt] means a reverence for folklore, storytelling, oral traditions, symbols, talismans, and connecting with your heritage,”
said. “It's an extremely thoughtful and emotional piece in a world of mass-produced fashion,” Kristie Chow and Michelle Li, founders of Hauteline—a premier clothing rental platform—added. It is one of the trop three skirt styles on their website.Ahead, I speak with four people who own the skirt. Disclosure: I will earn a commission for any purchase made from my affiliate links.
Viv Chen, Fashion and Culture Writer in California
When did you buy your Carabiner Skirt and tell us how you acquired it
Back in...2022? I did some content creation for Farfetch and got a nice chunk of site credit! I knew I was going to spend it all on a Chopova Lowena skirt because I had seen them online and loved the “punk meets folk meets ornamental” aesthetic...I'd just never seen anything like it and wanted one but $1K on a skirt was just not realistic for my budget! So I browsed the options on Farfetch and decided this one with the red belt and heart buckle was the most "me." I ordered it and have never looked back! It's so much fun to wear.
How would you describe your style and how does the aesthetic of the skirt fit within that?
My style is expressive, fanciful, and full of color. While I don't think that wearing head-to-toe Chopova Lowena would feel genuine for my style, the skirt is the perfect combination of metal hardware/patterns/print color that just brings so much vitality and narrative richness to an outfit. Also, I just wear a ton of skirts :)
What was your relationship with the brand like before making the purchase? i.e. casual observer, longtime fan, obsessive shopper etc.
I'd describe my relationship as a casual fan/observer. It was a "nice to have", I wasn't gonna ~die~ if I didn't get my hands on the skirt. After buying this skirt with site credit, I haven't felt a burning need to buy anything else from CL. It's like, if you're gonna get one thing from CL, get the skirt and for most of us that is enough.
What do you think makes the skirt so special? And why do you love having it in your closet?
It's special because of the highly recognizable and specific design—the tartan pleats, the medieval/folklore patterns, and the thick belt. It's also very adjustable, so great for body fluctuations.
How do you like to wear yours? And to what occasions have you worn it so far?
I love wearing it with knee high socks and my platform Simone Rocha oxford brogues. I think because the skirt has a life of its own, it flares out like one of those baking cupcake wrapper things, it looks best with a huge chunky shoe (for me personally!). Gosh I've worn it everywhere. Not even occasions but just to the grocery store!!!!
What does the brand Chopova Lowena personally mean or represent to you?
It means a reverence for folklore, storytelling, oral traditions, symbols, talismans, and connecting with your heritage, whatever that may be.
What should shoppers know before buying the skirt?
It's heavy. If you aren't used to wearing what is essentially a saddle around your waist/hips, it takes some getting used to. Keep in mind that you are wearing dozens of carabiner clips, in addition to a giant leather belt with a flashy buckle. It is not going to feel like a normal waistband. Honestly, I often feel like a tired pack mule after a long day wearing mine :')
Skylar Marshai, Content Creator based in NYC
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When did you buy your CL skirt and tell us how you acquired it?
I got my first Chopova skirt in September 2024. I only know because I spent nearly a year deciding whether or not it was worth the amount. When it comes to bigger purchases, I try to let them sit for a while before I pull the trigger, and this one took longer than most for me to commit to. It was hard to justify paying upwards of $1K on a skirt. In the end, I didn’t have to, and got it at about half that during an SSENSE sale. I guess good things do come to those who wait (and wait).
How would you describe your style and how does the aesthetic of the skirt fit within that?
My style is a visual love letter to myself, so I tend to dress outward–often treating my looks like a collage artist would: constantly layering textures, silhouettes, and moods. I’m usually rotating through three different personality archetypes when I get dressed and my Chopova skirt fits the bill for each one. When I’m feeling artsy, its deconstructed pleats are maximal in the best way and pair well with everything from a synched corset to a vintage tee. The hardware of the skirt also adds this industrial element that speaks to my love of proportion play in the looks I put together. It’s both extra and versatile as hell.
What was your relationship with the brand like before making the purchase? i.e. casual observer, longtime fan, obsessive shopper etc.
I knew Chopova skirts were something to be coveted, and often felt like the people who I knew had them, treated them like wearable art pieces, which is what initially drew me to the brand and the item. I have a friend who’s a stylist who has like 4 of them, and it took me playing dress up in them to finally decide to get one of my own. The quality, pleats, hardware–they’re all really well done in my opinion.
What do you think makes the skirt so special? And why do you love having it in your closet?
I love my Chopova skirt because it truly feels like the best of all worlds–it’s masculine and feminine, sculptural yet fluid, sharp but soft. As someone who loves to explore duality in self-expression, it feels like a piece that will evolve as my taste and mood does. It’s easily become a signature piece in my closet.
How do you like to wear yours? And to what occasions have you worn it so far?
I’ve worn my Chopova skirt in literally every way to literally any occasion. It really is that girl! I’ve worn it with knee-high boots and a frilly corset to cocktail hours, I’ve worn it layered on top of low-rise jeans while grocery shopping, with sneakers and a tee for a casual linkup with friends–you name it. The limit does not exist! I love an item that feels like I could wear it 100x and it'll hit different every time.
What does the brand Chopova Lowena personally mean or represent to you?
Personally, Chopova Lowena resonates heavily with the way I dress: fluid, layered, intentional. It’s not afraid to mix softness with edge, or play with form without ever losing feeling. It gives me permission to be architectural and emotional. Playful and precise. Cheeky and powerful. I don’t feel like I have to choose, and I shouldn’t have to! I love when a brand encourages you to be all the things, all at once.
What should shoppers know before buying the skirt?
Be ready for it to feel substantial. Both on your pockets because they don’t come cheap but also in your closet! It’s a standout piece both physically and visually. The gift that keeps on giving.
Sierra Rena, Wardrobe Stylist based in NYC
When did you first buy your CL skirt and did you pay full price?
I bought my first skirt [a couple years ago]. I ended up buying it at Dover Street market in New York so I did pay full price. I stumbled upon it while I was shopping for SZA for her Dreamville performance. It happened to just be the last one as well.
How would you describe your style and how does the aesthetic of the skirt fit within that?
I would describe my style as very eclectic and timeless. I’m truly learning how to balance out making really cool runway pieces part of my day-to-day wardrobe. I am also infatuated with putting patterns together and having a CL skirt is perfect in my closet.
What do you think makes the skirt so special? And why do you love having it in your closet?
I think the different patterns and combinations in each skirt that I’ve seen from everyone is what makes it so cool and colorful. I really enjoy being able to play with clips to attach the belt to the pleated fabric.
How do you like to wear yours? And to what occasions have you worn it so far?
So far I’ve worn the skirt a few times and then for a photo shoot. I’ve worn it to a festival, honestly when I style myself in outfits, I never think I’m doing too much so my skirt can get worn in any type of occasion
What does the brand Chopova Lowena personally mean or represent to you?
I think Chopova Lowena is for the people who love patterns, youthfulness, fun styling, and have a great eye for fashion.
What should shoppers know before buying the skirt?
It’s not as scary as it seems and it’s a really cool item in my wardrobe that I enjoy being able to have as an option to either dress up or down.
Nancy Cavaliere, Stylist and Vintage Collector in NYC
When did you buy your first CL skirt and if you own more than one, how did you go from owning one to multiple?
I bought my one and only CL skirt three years ago, not long after their first runway debut.
Did you buy them at full price? How did you go about acquiring each?
I was lucky enough to score mine at the end of season sale at Bergdorf Goodman for about $450. However, since they kept lowering the price I was able to get price adjustments and ended up paying a final total of $320 which was such a score!
How would you describe your style and how does the aesthetic of the skirt fit within that?
My style is definitely eclectic. I mostly shop secondhand and collect vintage designer so I have everything from Tom Ford Gucci to Bob Mackie to fun Y2K. The skirt fits right in because it’s colorful, structured and lets me play around with pattern and shapes
What was your relationship with the brand like before making the purchase? i.e. casual observer, longtime fan, obsessive shopper etc.
I was a fan of the brand as soon as I saw them debut and became obsessed pretty quickly. I’m still on the hunt for one of their short skirts but haven’t found the perfect one at the right price yet.
How do you like to style it and where have you worn it so far?
I love this skirt because it’s super versatile and can be worn in so many different ways depending on how I feel and what I’m doing that day. Usually for work which is pretty corporate, I wear it with a blazer, classic button down and Tabi boots. But I’ve also worn it with thick sweaters, patterned tights, over trousers, and even with a t-shirt and Dr. Martens sandals during summer Fridays. For a more casual look when I’m running errands or doing mom stuff, I like to wear it with sneakers and a vintage tee, or with a fun tank but I mostly focus on mixing textures like adding a denim or leather jacket over a cotton or silk top.
What do you think makes the skirt so special? And why do you love having it in your closet?
For me what makes this skirt special is the craftsmanship and knowing that they are made from recycled and deadstock fabrics. For an interior design girl like myself, who is constantly sourcing fabric for upholstery jobs and to revamp clothing I thrift, this really speaks to me. The craftsmanship, the design of the belts, the pleats and using the carabiners for the skirts is also really fresh and fun, it’s out there in the best way.
What does the brand Chopova Lowena personally mean or represent to you?
Bold, fearless, individual style with a focus on history.
What should shoppers know before buying the skirt?
The belts make the skirts heavy but not uncomfortable. Also the sizing is generous since the belt can be adjusted. I’m a size 10-12 and my skirt is large but I can also fit the medium if I set it on the last belt hole, so if you’re choosing a skirt, keep this in mind.
this was so much fun! <3
Love this and super excited for more in this series !!!!!