Why They Bought It: The Margiela Tabi
How Martin Margiela's "ugly shoe" took over fashion
Introducing my new shopping series Why They Bought It where I investigate the cultish appeal of certain fashion items.
This post was originally published on my website in 2023 but I have since reached out to the BATA Shoe Museum’s curator Nishi Bassi for a quote, and added some tweaks to make it current.
I distinctly remember the moment I considered purchasing my first pair of Margiela Tabis. On a glorious summer day in Paris, following a visit to the Yves Saint-Laurent museum, I took a detour to the Maison Margiela boutique on Avenue Montaigne. On the second floor, cool iterations of the polarizing styles in neutral and pastel shades lined two travertine shelves. I felt drawn to their look, not in an aesthetic way but out of a profound sense of admiration for Martin Margiela’s historicity. After all, the Belgian designer—inspired by the Japanese—disrupted our preconceived notions of beauty by bending fashion in unexpected ways.
As I stood there agonizing over my indecision, I wondered if I had it in me to actually wear the Tabi shoes. It wasn’t about their practicality: they are generally considered comfortable and versatile. What I couldn’t seem to get over is the fact that they aren’t, well, pretty. The Margiela Tabis can be described in many ways (edgy, weird, fashion-forward, cool) but pretty isn’t exactly one of them. Yet the split-toe designs have garnered a cult of devoted shoppers as much as they have been deemed ugly. What is it about these shoes that galvanize fans into collecting them (and in one recent instance, stealing them) but also inspire Google searches like, “What is the point of Tabis?”
A Brief History of Split-Toe Footwear
Long before Margiela gave it new life, the Tabi had been in existence as a worker shoe dating back to 15th-century Japan. When the designer showed Tabi boots in his 1988 debut show, the radical design both shocked and fascinated fashion people across the globe, but particularly in the U.S. “This was a decade in which the Western fashion system finally began to appreciate the ingenuity of Japanese designers,” Nishi told me. “Culturally, there was also a broader, growing fascination with Japan in this period and it’s not hard to see the appeal of tabi-inspired footwear.”
The following decades would only bear witness to the Tabi’s enduring resonance although, as Nishi said, “it has lost much of its early associations with Japanese fashion.” Detached from its roots as a niche fashion item, the shoes have evolved into a status symbol—fashion technology platform Lyst declared them the hottest products of 2023.
Although I walked out of the Margiela store empty-handed that day, my curiosity about the Tabi has only grown stronger. So when I came across some tastemakers who routinely collect them, I had to quiz them about it. Will I ever buy my own? Yes, in fact I am very close to swiping my card on the painted leather styles below. If you too are looking to embark on your own Tabi journey, these would be my recommendations:
From Left to Right: Tabi in Painted Leather; Mary-Janes; Pumps
Disclosure: I will earn a commission for any purchase made from these links.
Ahead, see what these Tabi collectors have to say about their prized possessions.
Naomi Elizée, Fashion Editor and Podcaster based in New York
When did you first buy your first Tabis, and how did you go from owning one to multiple pairs?
I purchased my first Tabis back in 2018. I had two Nordstrom gift cards that I was saving for the occasion!
What do you think makes these shoes so special? Is it mystique? Performance? Or their inherent iykyk status?
After my first pair, I got hooked. I wanted to build a collection and start finding more rare Tabis. I would scour the internet on Vestiaire, Depop, and EBay for the best finds. I think what make the Margiela Tabis so special is just how odd and spectacular of a shoe they are. Everyone always has such a strong opinion about them but usually fall in one category of either loving them or completely despising them. When you wear them, you’re almost always going to get a reaction out of people, whether good or bad. It’s the beauty of seeing a stranger out in the wild in a pair of Tabis because in an instant, you and a stranger share a common love.
How would you describe your style and how does the aesthetic of these shoes fit within that?
Personally, I find Tabis comfortable and easy to throw on. When it comes to my personal style, I love owning something that brings me both joy and comfort. My tabis also give me a certain level of confidence that no other shoe in my closet can ever replicate.
What kind of luxury shopper are you? (Example: Impulse purchaser? "Sleep on it" or "As long as I want it and I have the money?" kind of girl?)
I am definitely a sleep on it then but it type of shopper. I try to make sure that I think out my purchases and make sure it’s something I actually want and can use for years to come. It’s so easy to get caught up in the teens cycle and I rather not waste my money or contribute to waste by over consuming.
Were you familiar with or particularly attached to Maison Margiela when you purchased your first pair?
Yes, definitely! It was within my first year at Vogue and I kept seeing them everywhere. I so desperately wanted them but of course, couldn’t really afford them. Once I got those gift cards, I knew it was time! I still have my first pair of boots and they are still in such great condition. My most treasured investment.
How often do you wear them? Has the material carried well over time?
I have a few pairs that I alternate with. I would say I wear Tabis around 2-3 times a week. Most of my Tabis are still in great condition. I do have a pair where the sole needs some love but it’s my fault since I wore them in the rain! It’s also important to take your shoes to the cobbler to help maintain their condition!
What should shoppers know before buying them today?
Once you buy your first pair, be prepared to buy the next one!
Reese Blutstein, Fashion Creator based in Atlanta
When did you buy your first Tabis, and how did you go from owning one to multiple pairs?
I only own one pair, but my twin sister has two pairs so it’s like I own three pairs since we share everything.
What do you think makes these shoes so special? Is it mystique? Performance? Or their inherent iykyk status?
I think for me it might be that they confuse the people around me. Living where I live they aren’t as common compared to NYC. So I think people will look at them for a little longer to try to figure out what’s different about them than most shoes. I love things that make people think even just for a few seconds. I also don’t love wearing things that are too much of one style like too feminine or too masculine, and these help bring an edge to any outfit if it’s feeling too much of one thing.
How would you describe your style and how does the aesthetic of these shoes fit within that?
Oh, that’s so hard! My style is forever changing. I think it’s a combination of emphasis on structure and shape as well as certain color combos. I love playing around with color combos that at first might seem like they wouldn’t go together but they do. I think the Tabis fit perfectly into that dynamic because they are kind of a disrupter.
What kind of luxury shopper are you? (Example: Impulse purchaser? "Sleep on it" or "As long as I want it and I have the money?" kind of girl?)
"Sleep on it" and really really think about it. How will I wear this multiple ways? Is there something I own that’s even remotely similar? I really think about my luxury items before I buy them. And I don’t buy them too often. I look at it as if it’s a treat that I get maybe once a year. If that.
Were you familiar with or particularly attached to Maison Margiela when you purchased your first pair?
Yes! I’ve always been inspired by Margiela. Especially 90s Margiela! I also really love what is going on at Margiela currently! The recent collection has brought me so much inspiration.
How often do you wear them? Has the material carried well over time?
I wear mine so much that I need to get them resoled.
What should shoppers know before buying them today?
Try them on before buying because depending on the ones you get they all fit a little differently. Some are wide, some are narrow so trying them on really helps.
Solidad Nwakibu, Fashion Stylist and Creator based in New York
When did you first buy your first Tabis, and how did you go from owning one to multiple pairs?
I bought my first pair of Tabis in 2021, they were the Tabi 80s in burgundy with the soft leather. I went from owning one to multiple because there are so many different variations in the Tabi that lined up perfectly with my personal style (i.e. mary janes, loafers, slingbacks etc.)
What do you think makes these shoes so special? Is it mystique? Performance? Or their inherent iykyk status?
I think the iykyk status plays a big role but generally from my perspective, I think they're so special because they have an interesting way of edging up and making any outfit super interesting. For example, if you have on a "basic model off duty" look, a Tabi turns it up a notch instantly. They're a total conversation starter as well, whether with a fellow tabi owner or someone who has no idea what they are and is just super curious about them and I think that helps with the margiela brand/name as well.
How would you describe your style and how does the aesthetic of these shoes fit within that?
My style is a bit hard to pin down at times but overall I'd say it is very balanced. I love to mix feels, i.e. feminine and more androgynous/edgy in one look. For example, I'll pair frilly, dainty pieces with a super boxy blazer or leather jacket. Or I'll wear a super sexy, tight fitting top with super baggy jeans or a maxi skirt. I also love to start with one key statement piece then play on it by deriving colors and feels from it for the other pieces that go along with it. In the midst of all of that, I also really love earthy/cool tones and have them on 89% of the time, lol.
What kind of luxury shopper are you? (Example: Impulse purchaser? "Sleep on it" or "As long as I want it and I have the money?" kind of girl?)
I definitely sleep and marinate on it for a few weeks and try to catch it on sale preferably. I also make sure to know that it can fit into my current wardrobe seamlessly, because I am actively trying to combat my overconsumption habits, lol.
Were you familiar with or particularly attached to Maison Margiela when you purchased your first pair?
I work as a stylist and am also generally a personal fashion enthusiast myself, so I was very familiar with Maison Margiela prior. I think they are the epitome of edgy feminine and I love how avant-garde and maximalist their designs are. My favorite pieces prior to purchasing my tabis were a pair of baggy jeans with slits on the sides . I also love a few of the Replica fragrances!
How often do you wear them? Has the material carried well over time?
I wear them pretty often, I wear my loafers a few days a week because they are really comfortable. I also own mint green slingback flats which everyone knows I wear just about with every outfit recently. My ankle boots which were the first pair I ever bought and wore a lot have definitely been worn down, I actually even had a hole at one of the toes but the Margiela in Soho kindly repaired that for me a few months ago. The material holds up and is still polished but I think the soft leather pairs are a bit more delicate.
What should shoppers know before buying them today?
The soft leather pairs are delicate and the heel on the boot gets a bit uncomfortable after a few hours of wear and I wouldn't classify them as walking shoes. However, the flats are amazing for everyday wear. I think everyone should own a pair!
Madeleine Would, Fashion Creator based in Toronto
When did you first buy your first Tabis, and how did you go from owning one to multiple pairs?
I bought my first pair about 6 years ago, I think I was 19. It was such a huge moment for me! I wore them with absolutely everything, even outfits they didn’t go with at all, I was just obsessed with them. I started with the classic black boots, then got some other colors in the boot, then I branched out to other styles like the ballerina flat. I wanted to wear a tabi with literally every outfit and realized I needed different colors and styles to make it work.
What do you think makes these shoes so special? Is it mystique? Performance? Or their inherent iykyk status?
It's the weirdness for sure. For me a big part of the appeal is knowing that the average person finds them so unattractive and borderline grotesque, but I get them and I love them. I don't think there is an “if you know you know status” anymore, I think they're so popular and have become so saturated that everyone knows about them. A few weeks ago, I went out with an investment banker who shopped exclusively at the mall and he knew what they were, so I'm fairly certain the days of ‘iykyk’ are dead.
How would you describe your style and how does the aesthetic of these shoes fit within that?
I would describe my style as elevated, feminine, chic. I care the most about fit, cut, and quality of fabric; I care very little about colors or prints. Think The Row, Martin-era Maison Margiela, Phoebe Philo, those are the brands I take most inspiration from. I think that's what makes tabis so appealing to me: they’re so well-made, the leather is stunning, they wear beautifully; to me they’re a stunning basic but elevated. I can wear a pair of old jeans, a sweater and a huge jacket with tabis and all of a sudden a regular outfit is elevated and interesting. I think that's the best way to wear tabis. If a fit is too crazy, busy, layered, colorful, eccentric and then there's tabis on foot it looks super awkward to me. I like the way people wore tabis when Martin was at the house - a sort of perverted surprise to an otherwise simpler outfit, and that's the way I like to wear them too.
What kind of luxury shopper are you? (Example: Impulse purchaser? "Sleep on it" or "As long as I want it and I have the money?" kind of girl?)
I’m a complete shopaholic and will buy myself whatever I want. I like buying vintage or second hand, but this year for some reason I’ve shopped entirely brand new. However, I do LOADS of research regardless. I know the composition of whatever I'm buying, the season it's from, the creative director who was at the house at the time the piece was made, I love it all. Especially if it's a vintage piece I've been hunting for for a while, finally finding it is the best feeling.
Were you familiar with or particularly attached to Maison Margiela when you purchased your first pair?
Yes, I love Martin. I admire him so much, he’s definitely my favorite designer. I bought tabis before I owned any RTW and they were for sure a gateway drug for me. I became sort of obsessed with his time at the maison for a second. I bought all the books, watched all the movies and all the old runway shows. I wanted some of those super famous pieces for a while like the glove top and the stockman corset but that's just not realistic for me. Tabis felt like an easy way to show my love and admiration for the brand in any outfit.
How often do you wear them? Has the material carried well over time?
I wear my tabis all the time. My first pair are absolutely cooked, the heel drag is crazy, the toes are all scratched and scraped, but I love them so much and I'll never stop wearing them. Considering they’re almost six years old and I've worn them as often as I have, I'd say they’ve held up really well. I’ve taken much better care of my other pairs, getting them resoled and touched up and stuff so I'm sure they’ll last for ages too. Some pairs I've only worn a handful of times, one pair I got three years ago and haven't worn yet, so those ones obviously still look great.
What should shoppers know before buying them today?
Do not pay retail!!! You don’t have to!!! With the amount of stores that stock them and the way sales work these days, just set alerts for whatever online store you like the best and wait. Or just buy a pair on ebay or Vestiare. But don't pay retail.
Do we like this new series? I have a lot more in store for you!
Until next time,
Shelcy
Is it a horse, cow, or pig!
Love this! I want a pair.