June in Paris
Clubbing, overpriced vintage, fish ramen on a hot day, etc.
On the night of our arrival in Paris, our Uber driver put on a Haitian playlist and I sank deeper into my seat. It was an instant “I’ve found my people” moment, a warm welcome to a place that is always difficult for me to experience.
You don’t leave yourself behind when traveling. Packed in your mental suitcase is the totality of your lineage, histories and present-day experiences that keep you remembering. Past, present and future forever in a dance. I land in France and am immediately plunged into melancholy. The psychic wound of seeing dreams realized at the expense of former French colonies flares up again and again. Every moment of joy experienced with the ghost of possibilities stolen.
Yet against this backdrop, there is also beauty. Paris is grand, leafy, mythical and architecturally beautiful. I am drawn to this city where art, culture and leisure interact with daily life. Its appeal to the intellectually curious and those with hedonistic tendencies resonates with me. I may never be fully at ease (at least not until reparations are made), the wound is left open.
It was my second time this past June, and I enjoyed staying in Pigalle and later Montmartre where there’s greater diversity and a sense of openness to foreigners. Coming from the lavish wedding in Tuscany, our goal was to ease into the Parisian lifestyle. No packed itinerary, just a loose plan of making fashion, food and art part of each day. The only reservation we snagged was at Robert et Louise, a Bourdain-approved joint specializing in red meat and wood-fire grilling.
In our six days in Paris, I lived on the metro. I ventured into more than a dozen concept stores and vintage shops, wandered in 90-degree weather and took note of how Parisians dress for heatwaves. In the afternoons, my husband and I would get together for oysters and on one occasion, watch a World Cup game (Senegal vs France) before dinner and whatever the night had in store.
I still associate the taste of oysters with those balmy afternoons of indulgent wine buzzes. The smell of French cigarettes, the “Allez les Bleus!” chants, the crisp pitchers of beer, that sensorial satisfaction of being in a city pulsing with summer energy.
I will always remember the feeling of Paris in June. This guide is my attempt to relive these moments and hopefully inspire your next visit. I’ve narrowed it down to the absolute must-sees, which include a beautiful night at the Opéra Bastille, a visit to a gallery that specializes in contemporary African art, a “Black music only” club, and of course, delicious eats like a fish ramen spot worth going to even during a heatwave.
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Day 1
Nuovo
Clean minimalist space that’s more of a quick browse than a long stay. You’ll find a mix of diffusion lines (i.e. Red Valentino) and French classics, like the pictured $550 YSL jacket and a good assortment of Chanel accessories.
Ofr. Librairie, galerie
Like Iconic Magazines in West Village, this is a cramped bookshop with a mix of cool fashion, design and lifestyle print publications you’re likely already familiar with, including Luncheon and Dazed. I’d say the service is classically Parisian, detached but receptive if called upon.
Nice Piece Vintage
Returning fan here, I always make it a point to stop by Nice Piece Vintage when in Paris. It’s one of the few boutiques that aren’t price gouging because they are true to this, not new to this. The owner Bonaventure (Kells) is a chatty Cameroonian French guy who’s been in the vintage business for 15 years. I was into his huge collection of leather belts, which were not only unique looking but also well-priced ($80-100 a piece).
I managed to only buy two and upon realizing that one of the belts needed adjusting, Bona took me to his go-to cobbler nearby. It was all really fun.
