BYOB: A Fashion Book Reading Party 💌
Plus catching up with fashion news.
Consider this my excuse to actually read the 60+ fashion books I’ve accumulated so far. Join me at the kickoff book reading party next Wednesday, June 12, 2024 in Brooklyn from 6-8 PM.
For as long as I can remember, I’ve wanted to have a book club. But instead of forcing people to read the same thing (unless this ends up happening organically), I thought it might be interesting to have everyone read a book of their choice in silence then share their thoughts afterwards.
So, that’s what I decided to do, and I hope to have some meaningful exchanges with you all. If you’re interested and available to attend, just grab your book and RSVP here. We’ll start small with less than 15 people.
In the meantime, some thoughts on recent fashion happenings + what I’m reading:
LATEST IN FASHION NEWS:
Calvin Klein is enjoying a quiet cultural resurgence, thanks to that Jeremy Allen White campaign and red carpet appearances like Zendaya’s white suit ensemble during the Challengers press tour and Talya Ryder’s blue Met Gala gown. Still, earned media value does not necessarily drive sales (as ironically, the company stock fell 8% shortly after the viral ad), so CK has a lot more work to do. What comes next? The Calvin Klein Collection, which had been on pause since Raf Simons’ firing in 2018. The company hired Italian fashion designer and The Row alum Veronica Leoni to lead the charge on women’s and men’s RTW.
Although Calvin Klein is perhaps best known for its branded underwear (and that one billboard in Soho) today, the brand gave us some iconic runway moments and culture-defining ad campaigns in the ‘90s (who remembers Brook Shields’ infamous line: “You want to know what comes in between me and my Calvins? Nothing.”?) The news didn’t come as too big a surprise to anyone who knows the history, but still we all can’t help but wonder: what is different this time around? Raf Simons was well poised to revive its runway years, but his tenure came to an end after only two years. Is Calvin Klein better resourced to weather the runway marketing gamble? Leoni’s brand of directional minimalism seems to be a match for the PVH-owned giant’s design sensibility, so here’s hoping they give us some interesting fashion and editorials.
Who Is Sabato de Sarno? After watching the short film on MUBI (which feels more like a commercial), I’m honestly left with more questions than answers. Gucci’s resort show in London expanded his design language somewhat, but I mostly saw hints of Michele’s maximalist Gucci and the continued commitment to the “streamlined luxury” look that’s supposed to sell. That said, the accessories will likely be bestsellers, namely those ballet flats and creepers but I am not yet moved by a particular bag.
To be fair, there is always pressure on the new creative director to figure it out quickly, but it’s important to remember that none of the initial collections of the past creative directors were immediate success (including Tom Ford’s). Even when the designers presented something revolutionary for the times (Ford’s skin-baring aesthetic and Michele’s androgynous clothing), the fashion press was almost always divided but there at least the looks were memorable. There is something different about Sabato’s Gucci. He may be technically skilled, but the looks lack a certain “je ne sais quoi” that is either subversive, fantastical or novel. It’s also interesting to note how defensive he is in interviews when ultimately, fashion critics probably just want to see Gucci succeed. The brand has such a storied history, it’s not good enough for it to just fade in the background.
The luxury e-commerce bubble seems to be bursting, but MyTheresa, SSENSE and Moda Operandi are holding strong. BoF has a story on what they’re each doing right, but I can speak about SSENSE and Moda from my personal experience. When I visited the SSENSE store in Montreal, I was so moved by the experience that I wrote about it. In addition to being attentive, the store employees were actually knowledgeable, which you just don’t get at department stores anymore. Plus, the brand continues to champion new interesting designers alongside established labels, and the marketing is just memorable, funny, inclusive and clever.
As a privately held company, little is actually known about Moda Operandi’s numbers but I suspect a bulk of the revenue comes from all the launch events they host for brands. Like most media companies, the retailer has shape shifted into a production agency of sorts, throwing parties regularly as a result. This income stream has proven to be lucrative—and in some cases, a lifeline—for media brands, and I suspect this is the case here too. Moda told BoF that “its sales to-date in 2024 are running at positive comparisons to last year and 2022,” which doesn’t exactly tell us much, but what we know for sure is that the company is not yet profitable but expects to be in the near future.
Although I understand the logistical reasons why it’s not doing well, I’m still shocked at Net-a-Porter’s trajectory. Not only did it pioneer online luxury retail, but it also has a great combination of products: a good selection of brands (it can do a better job at inclusive marketing though), thoughtful edits, a great editorial platform and same-day delivery (if you live in the New York area). The parent company has been trying to offload it for some time, and I’m hoping the new owner maintains these great features of the platform. I will have a story about a curious case of dupes on N-A-P in the near future.
WHAT I’M READING:
‘When Women Ran Fifth Avenue’ Review: Queens of Fashion (WSJ)
They escaped a world of fast fashion to teach L.A. how to give old clothes new life (LA Times)
The Diminishing Returns of Having Good Taste (The Atlantic)
Until next time,
Shelcy