Consider this my excuse to actually read the 60+ fashion books Iâve accumulated so far. Join me at the kickoff book reading party next Wednesday, June 12, 2024 in Brooklyn from 6-8 PM.
For as long as I can remember, Iâve wanted to have a book club. But instead of forcing people to read the same thing (unless this ends up happening organically), I thought it might be interesting to have everyone read a book of their choice in silence then share their thoughts afterwards.
So, thatâs what I decided to do, and I hope to have some meaningful exchanges with you all. If youâre interested and available to attend, just grab your book and RSVP here. Weâll start small with less than 15 people.
In the meantime, some thoughts on recent fashion happenings + what Iâm reading:
LATEST IN FASHION NEWS:
Calvin Klein is enjoying a quiet cultural resurgence, thanks to that Jeremy Allen White campaign and red carpet appearances like Zendayaâs white suit ensemble during the Challengers press tour and Talya Ryderâs blue Met Gala gown. Still, earned media value does not necessarily drive sales (as ironically, the company stock fell 8% shortly after the viral ad), so CK has a lot more work to do. What comes next? The Calvin Klein Collection, which had been on pause since Raf Simonsâ firing in 2018. The company hired Italian fashion designer and The Row alum Veronica Leoni to lead the charge on womenâs and menâs RTW.
Although Calvin Klein is perhaps best known for its branded underwear (and that one billboard in Soho) today, the brand gave us some iconic runway moments and culture-defining ad campaigns in the â90s (who remembers Brook Shieldsâ infamous line: âYou want to know what comes in between me and my Calvins? Nothing.â?) The news didnât come as too big a surprise to anyone who knows the history, but still we all canât help but wonder: what is different this time around? Raf Simons was well poised to revive its runway years, but his tenure came to an end after only two years. Is Calvin Klein better resourced to weather the runway marketing gamble? Leoniâs brand of directional minimalism seems to be a match for the PVH-owned giantâs design sensibility, so hereâs hoping they give us some interesting fashion and editorials.
Who Is Sabato de Sarno? After watching the short film on MUBI (which feels more like a commercial), Iâm honestly left with more questions than answers. Gucciâs resort show in London expanded his design language somewhat, but I mostly saw hints of Micheleâs maximalist Gucci and the continued commitment to the âstreamlined luxuryâ look thatâs supposed to sell. That said, the accessories will likely be bestsellers, namely those ballet flats and creepers but I am not yet moved by a particular bag.
To be fair, there is always pressure on the new creative director to figure it out quickly, but itâs important to remember that none of the initial collections of the past creative directors were immediate success (including Tom Fordâs). Even when the designers presented something revolutionary for the times (Fordâs skin-baring aesthetic and Micheleâs androgynous clothing), the fashion press was almost always divided but there at least the looks were memorable. There is something different about Sabatoâs Gucci. He may be technically skilled, but the looks lack a certain âje ne sais quoiâ that is either subversive, fantastical or novel. Itâs also interesting to note how defensive he is in interviews when ultimately, fashion critics probably just want to see Gucci succeed. The brand has such a storied history, itâs not good enough for it to just fade in the background.
The luxury e-commerce bubble seems to be bursting, but MyTheresa, SSENSE and Moda Operandi are holding strong. BoF has a story on what theyâre each doing right, but I can speak about SSENSE and Moda from my personal experience. When I visited the SSENSE store in Montreal, I was so moved by the experience that I wrote about it. In addition to being attentive, the store employees were actually knowledgeable, which you just donât get at department stores anymore. Plus, the brand continues to champion new interesting designers alongside established labels, and the marketing is just memorable, funny, inclusive and clever.
As a privately held company, little is actually known about Moda Operandiâs numbers but I suspect a bulk of the revenue comes from all the launch events they host for brands. Like most media companies, the retailer has shape shifted into a production agency of sorts, throwing parties regularly as a result. This income stream has proven to be lucrativeâand in some cases, a lifelineâfor media brands, and I suspect this is the case here too. Moda told BoF that âits sales to-date in 2024 are running at positive comparisons to last year and 2022,â which doesnât exactly tell us much, but what we know for sure is that the company is not yet profitable but expects to be in the near future.
Although I understand the logistical reasons why itâs not doing well, Iâm still shocked at Net-a-Porterâs trajectory. Not only did it pioneer online luxury retail, but it also has a great combination of products: a good selection of brands (it can do a better job at inclusive marketing though), thoughtful edits, a great editorial platform and same-day delivery (if you live in the New York area). The parent company has been trying to offload it for some time, and Iâm hoping the new owner maintains these great features of the platform. I will have a story about a curious case of dupes on N-A-P in the near future.
WHAT IâM READING:
âWhen Women Ran Fifth Avenueâ Review: Queens of Fashion (WSJ)
They escaped a world of fast fashion to teach L.A. how to give old clothes new life (LA Times)
The Diminishing Returns of Having Good Taste (The Atlantic)
Until next time,
Shelcy